Your Metallic Series rower’s tank is a 2-piece design. Over time and with heavy use, the glue sealing the tank may become compromised and leak. To remedy this, the tank must be resealed.
If your tank has any cracks, you will need to determine what kind of tank you have (metal or plastic clutch) and order a replacement tank assembly.
Resealing the tank is a task that can be performed with attention to detail and patience. Please read all the instructions below and view the video before attempting this repair. If you decide to perform this repair, be sure to handle the tank with care — cracking the top or bottom half of the tank would cause irreparable damage, requiring replacement.
If you are not comfortable resealing your tank, contact us at [email protected] — you can ship your tank to us and we can reseal it for a modest fee.
Please note:
- We highly recommend using a caulk gun to do this repair.
- To prevent premature glue curing, please perform this repair in temperatures between 50º-70º F (10º-21º C).
- The glue has a shelf life and we highly recommend using the glue within 3 months of purchase.
As a guide, watch the video below. Note that this video is for an Original Series rower, but the same concepts apply for the Metallic Series from a procedural standpoint.
Step 1
Place handle into the most forward position near the large pulley in the Forward Riser.
Step 2
Using the 5mm ratchet included with your rower, remove the handle rests and handle rest bolts. Set them aside.
Step 3
Rotate the footboard away from the tank assembly toward the rear of the rower.
Step 4
Remove the tank cover by sliding it simultaneously upward and toward the rear of the rower.
Step 5
Unclip the bungee cord from the recoil strap.
Step 6
Completely remove the handle/drive strap from the tank assembly by pulling on the handle. Some WaterRower models have the drive strap bolted onto the clutch, on others it is attached with Velcro (which may also have a bolt securing the strap). Leave the lower recoil belt in place.
Step 7
Remove the 4 tie rod bolts on the front of the WaterRower that secure the top and bottom decks to the forward riser. Be careful not to lose the barrel nuts that will drop out from the underside of the top deck.
Step 8
Slide the tank assembly (with clutch, pulleys, and the top and bottom decks attached) towards the seat to check that it is free of the rest of the unit. Lift the tank off of the rails, turn the tank over and rest it upside down (on the top deck) on a clean, dry surface that is at a comfortable height. Be sure the surface is free of any debris that could damage the top deck or get in the way of being able to work freely.
Step 9
Separate the two halves of the tank, being careful not to damage either half. Gently push in on inner “male” half to separate. Work your way around and test the tank carefully to find any “stuck” sections. All of the old adhesive must be removed. Use a razor blade to carefully cut and peel away any sticking, dried adhesive (the dried adhesive may look like a gasket).
If needed, a hair dryer may be used to help soften the old adhesive, making it easier to cut into and remove. Once you’ve broken the seal with the cuts, the bottom half of the tank should lift off with minimum force. Be careful at this point, as the tank half may flex and could easily crack – remove the bottom half evenly/squarely. Leave the paddle in place.
WaterRower customer, Chris Wood, offers this advice to separate the tank halves:
“I removed the old seal with 3 scalpel cuts. The first 2 cuts remove the bead of sealant along the top of the joint and allow you easy-access for the 3rd cut which is the narrow space where the two tank halves overlap. Having sliced through both surfaces where the sealant bead meets the tank, it should peel off like string, leaving clear access to the sealant between the overlapping tank halves.
If you’re lucky this might just lift out (some of mine had work-hardened), otherwise your 3rd cut is made by sliding the scalpel into the gap and cutting around the circumference of the tank. Given the depth of the seal, I had to do this about 2 times, cutting through a few millimeters at a time. I found making this cut put some flex into the scalpel blade and I had one snap; it would be wise to wear protective goggles.”
Step 10
lean both halves of the tank. Dry any residual water and completely remove any old adhesive. Wipe all surfaces with denatured alcohol and allow 2 minutes to dry.
Step 11
Carefully fit the two halves of the tank back together. Be sure they are fully engaged.
Note: Before you begin to use the adhesive, make sure you have everything ready and you are able to do the gluing process without disturbance — the glue sets very quickly.
Step 12
Assemble the applicator tip. Screw the ½” needle onto the hexagonal end of the white luer lock and tighten. Insert the narrow end of the mixing tube into the open end of the luer lock. You may need to use some pressure to get the threading to start. Tighten the needle, luer lock and mixing tube together.
Step 13
Follow the instructions printed on the back of the caulk gun adapter on how to assemble and insert the glue kit cartridge into the caulk gun.
Note:
- Place the conversion kit, with mixer and cartridge, in a caulking gun as shown below.
- Insert 50ml Cartridge, nose first, through the oval opening (this is the end with the smaller opening) of the sleeve until the cartridge flange fits snugly against the end of the sleeve.
- Place the plunger in the back of the cartridge.
- Connect the mix nozzle to the cartridge by removing the cap from the cartridge and breaking off the top section to allow the nozzle to fit into the cartridge.
Step 14
Rest the tip of the applicator needle in the corner formed at the edge of the seam of the tank.
Apply the glue evenly and smoothly into the seam. You may find it helpful to have someone work with you to gently rotate the tank for you as you glue along the seam of the tank. It may take several rotations of the tank until all the glue is used up.
Make sure you work quickly and continually. In doing so, the glue will be very liquid as it flows from the applicator tip and will be drawn down into the gap between the two halves of the tank. If you pause, the glue will become viscous as it exits the applicator tip and will not be drawn into the gap.
Try working at a rate of 1” per second.
Step 15
Wipe any drips away with a clean cloth.
Step 16
Allow four (4) hours for adhesive to set.
Step 17
Replace the tank assembly on the rails. Replace the four (4) tie rod bolts and barrel nuts on the front of the WaterRower that secure the top and bottom decks to the forward riser.
Step 18
Orient the handle so that the rivets in the handle collar (where the handle attaches to its strap) are facing downward.
While preserving this orientation and not twisting the handle strap, feed the handle strap through the forward riser cap, around around the large pulley in the forward riser, and into the clutch mechanism area as shown.
Step 19
Guide the handle strap inside of the upper guide pulley
Then, thread the handle strap through the openings in the clutch.
And finally, secure the handle to the clutch by tightening the small bolt with the 1/8″ Allen key.
Step 20
Gently pull on the recoil belt to wind the handle around the clutch.
While doing so, hold the handle strap taught to prevent it from slipping off the pulleys.
The handle must reach its most forward position, up against the Forward Riser.
Step 21
Pass the recoil belt over both guide pulleys (the smaller ones) in the Forward Riser. Ensure the recoil belt is aligned and sits in the grooves of both pulleys.
Step 22
Re-connect the bungee cord to the recoil belt.
Step 23
Reinstall the tank cover by sliding it simultaneously downward and toward the front of the rower. If your rower is equipped with black plastic shims to secure the front end of the top cover, ensure the cover is fully seated in them.
Step 24
Rotate the footboard forward towards the tank and align the handle rest holes with the nuts embedded in the black angled brackets of the tank assembly.
Step 25
Using the 5mm ratchet, reinstall the handle rests and their bolts.
Do not overtighten these bolts as damage to the black angled brackets may occur.
Note: Do NOT use a drill or impact driver when when installing these bolts.